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By Dog Specialist, September 6, 2010 1:58 pm

Nancy E. Wigal
29

The first time a feline owner encounters an out-of-the-cat-litter-box experience, she probably uses whatever cleaners she has on hand. Initially, it appears she’s cleaned the cat urine odor and stain from the location. However, in a matter of hours or days, she still smells the cat urine odor in the “clean” spot and can’t figure out why it’s still there.
You can effectively clean cat urine odor spots and get rid of the odor permanently, but you can’t use the cleaners you have for other common household stain problems. This article outlines why only enzyme cleaners are effective in removing cat urine odor and stains.
Cat urine is composed of five different bacteria strains. Two of the identified bacteria strains are in cat marking scent, while the others are in the cat urine, the spray, and the uric acid. The bacteria is the main culprit responsible for the eye-watering, stomach-clenching cat urine smell. Cats usually don’t lap up water in great quantities like other animals, so their urine tends to be extremely concentrated. This concentration of bacteria results in the strong smell that is unique to cat urine.
Regular household cleaners aren’t designed to eradicate the bacteria in cat urine because they don’t contain enzymes. If you clean up a cat urine puddle with a commercial household cleaner, you’ll wipe up the puddle, but leave the bacteria behind. The odor remains and you feel frustration and anger.
But it’s not hopeless. The answer is to purchase a good quality enzyme cleaner that specifically targets pet stains and odors.
Enzyme cleaners work by literally eating the bacteria in the affected area. The enzymes react to the bacteria by consuming it. When the bacteria is removed, the cat urine odor and stain is truly gone, and the smell is removed. Without the smell of the cat urine stain around, your cat is no longer encouraged to use that particular spot for her out-of-the-litter-box experience.
When you find a cat urine puddle, wipe up the puddle as much as possible. Be sure you check far and wide, in case the urine splashed or ran down an uneven surface. Then, spray or pour the enzyme cleaner onto the cat urine puddle area and let it dry. This gives the enzymes a chance to work on the bacteria and remove it. If the surface you’re treating has cracks and pits, pour or spray directly into the crevice to make sure the enzyme cleaner encounters the bacteria.
Depending upon how old the cat urine puddle is, you may need to do more than one treatment. The older the puddle, the more treatment you’ll need to do. Give the cleaner a chance to work by leaving it on the surface to dry.
You can usually find a variety of enzyme cleaners at your local pet store. My personal favorite is Dumb Cat Anti Marking and Cat Spray Remover. Before you purchase any enzyme cleaner, be sure to check the bottle’s contents. Many enzyme cleaners use blood enzymes, which is not effective on cat urine. Dumb Cat uses enzymes that specifically targets cat urine bacteria.
Not only can you use enzyme cleaners on floor and furniture surfaces, but you can also use them as a laundry pre-soak if kitty happens to nail clothes or bedding. I also use an enzyme cleaner as a pre-soaking agent when I’m deep scrubbing my cat litter boxes every week. As the cat scratches in the box to cover her deposits, she creates cracks in the box surface. By pouring some enzyme cleaner in the cat litter box and letting it soak into the scratches, you eliminate accumulated cat urine odors that eventually discourage your cat from using her litter box.
Good luck and happy cleaning!

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By Dog Specialist, September 4, 2010 1:57 pm

Peter Garant
593

A healthy puppy should be clear-eyed, somewhat roly-poly, loose-skinned, free from any skin trouble, hungry for its meals, and lively. It should not be timid or shy.
If the puppy seems warm or sleepy most of the time, ask one of your parents to take its temperature. A dog‘s temperature normally is between 38 and 39 degrees Celsius. If its temperature rises above 39 degrees, call your veterinarian.
When you buy your puppy, ask what shots it has received and when it got them. If it has not received shots to prevent distemper, infectious hepatitis, leptospirosis, and rabies. take it immediately to a veterinarian to have them. Then get yearly boosters.You should also find out whether your puppy has been wormed. Most puppies have worms at some time.
For the first few days, you should feed your puppy the same diet as the owners did. If you wish to change the diet, do so gradually. Each day, feed a little of the new food mixed with the old.
Puppies 6 to 10 weeks old maybe fed 4 times a day. From 10 weeks to 6 months, 3 times a day should be enough. After 6 months, twice daily will serve. And after 1 year, once a day-plus a biscuit for breakfast-is ample.
Meat should be the main part of your dog’s diet. Fresh, canned, or frozen beef or horsemeat are good choices. It is not necessary to cook the meat, but it should be served at room temperature. With the meat, mix a dog meal or kibbled biscuit soaked in hot water, soup, or milk. You can get the meal or biscuit in the supermarket, feed store, or pet shop. Puppies need vitamins and minerals, and your veterinarian can give you vitamin tablets that your dog will enjoy chewing.
Other foods you may safely give your dog are well-cooked chicken, lamb, beef hearts, liver, and leafy vegetables. Hard biscuits of the right size for the dog’s mouth and dog candy will be appreciated too. A little cooked rice or dry toast may help the dog in illness or when it is recovering.
A puppy loses its baby teeth when it is between 4 and 5 months. It will be grateful for beef hide or rawhide strips to chew. You can buy them at supermarkets and pet shops. These strips are also very helpful in keeping the puppy from chewing your shoes and the furniture. Pet shops and markets also carry special hard marrow bones that help in teething and in keeping the new teeth clean and healthy.
Leave a bowl of water so that your dog can have a drink at any time-but remove the supply of water at 5 or 6 PM when you’re housebreaking a puppy. This will help the puppy go through the night without mistake.

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By Dog Specialist, September 2, 2010 1:59 pm

Melissa Buhmeyer
436

I’ve owned many dogs, throughout my life, but have never known exactly how to train them properly. I based my training on punishment and just couldn’t figure out why that didn’t work that well. But, almost two years ago, I started training my Papillon for agility competition. She was extremely high-drive and I knew she’d really love it. So, I found a good agility training school and off we went. We’ve been competing, very successfully, for almost a year now and, looking back, I learned so many important things about dog training!
First of all, most trainers require that dogs have completed at least a basic obedience class before proceeding to agility training. This is critical to agility training and, in my opinion, every dog and handler could benefit from a basic obedience class. I learned that I have a food-motivated dog and that she will work her heart out for highly prized treats, not for punishment! There are skills you and your dog will learn, through an obedience class, such as recalls, sit/stays, down/stays, and walking nicely on a leash. Each of these skills is something you will need every time you compete, not to mention day-to-day life with your dog.
The pace of your training will always be set by your dog. Each dog learns at a different speed and, what comes easily for one dog, may not come easily for another. So, be very patient while training your dog any skill. Make it a game. Let your dog take as much time as it needs, without getting impatient or frustrated, to figure out what behavior you want from it.
All tasks must be broken down into small pieces, whether the task is a simple sit, the beginnings of obstacle training, or more complex tricks or agility sequences. If you break the task down to something small, then mark/reward and repeat, several times before making the task larger, you will have success without stressing the dog out. For example, when training an agility tunnel, you scrunch it up to its smallest form. Have someone place your dog at the entrance while you sit on the ground at the exit, with a treat, and call your dog. As soon as the dog comes through that little piece of a tunnel, you mark/reward. Slowly begin expanding the tunnel using the same technique. In just a few minutes, you’ll have your dog going through however long a tunnel you need.
For agility training, once the dog begins obstacle training, there is never a wrong answer. Dogs get confused, and may shut down, if they start being told they’re doing the wrong thing, so keep the training light and never scold for doing the incorrect thing. If the dog doesn’t do what you want it to, you simply do not mark/reward for that action. You just ask again and, the minute you get the correct response, mark/reward and make a huge deal of it. That will make your dog more anxious to give you that same answer again. As you start competing, you might want to use a particular word to indicate the incorrect response, such as “uh oh,” or “oops,” but not with a scolding tone. This will indicate that the dog will be asked to try again but everything is fine between the two of you.
Lastly, always keep the training fun for both you and your dog. Even when you start competing, or have been competing for a long time, this is critical. If you start getting caught up in the competition and title-winning, you might forget why you started agility to begin with: because it’s fun! When the game stops being fun, your dog won’t enjoy it anymore and neither will you. Agility is a wonderful sport and will forever secure the relationship between you and your dog. Run fast, run clean, and, above all, have fun!

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By Dog Specialist, August 31, 2010 1:58 pm

Linda Boye
180

Dogs can also suffer injuries or get sick from a number of diseases, and it can happen at times when a veterinarian is not available and you haven’t found out where the nearest emergency animal clinic is located. Since your dog is a dear member of your family, you want to save your dog’s life, but are you prepared to deal with such emergencies?
A life-threatening emergency situation is always frightening and stressing both for the victim and for the helpers. And when the victim is a dog who can’t tell you what happened and where it is hurting, the situation becomes even more difficult to deal with. The best help is to be prepared for an emergency by knowing about the more common dog emergencies.
Below are 3 tips about dog emergencies:
1. Caring for Wounds.
A dog can get bleeding wounds in several ways: By fighting with other animals or by (mainly traffic) accidents. So knowing how to stop a wound from bleeding the dog to death is useful knowledge: Apply a clean piece of cloth to the wound and keep it there for at least 5 minutes, – if possible tape the cloth to the wound. Don’t take the cloth away, since that would probably make the wound start bleeding again. If it is bleeding through the cloth, find another clean piece of cloth and put it firmly around the first piece of cloth. Using hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the bleeding wound is not a good idea in this case, since it will slow the clotting of the blood and lead to a larger loss of blood. The clotting of the blood in the wound is nature’s way of stopping the bleeding, so it is important not to disturb it.
2. Poisons in the Mouth?
Another common dog emergency situation is that your doggie has got something in his mouth, which is poisonous to him, and he may even have swallowed some of it. Some amphibians like toads, newts and the like excrete poisons on their skin (to keep other animals from eating them!) and if it gets into a dog’s mouth it can become dangerous if it is left there or worse: if it is swallowed. The dog will show that something is wrong with its mouth by drooling and wiping it while whining. You must quickly rinse the dog’s mouth with clean water until you feel that it has been cleaned of the poison. If you don’t have a hose at hand, it may be easier to pour water in his mouth if he is lying down on the side. And you can prevent him from drinking the water by keeping his mouth open until the rinse is finished. It may be difficult to keep his mouth open all the time but since his life may be at stake you must be firm with him and – if necessary – use available materials to keep his mouth open.
If you suspect that your dog has eaten something poisonous, it is important that he is made to vomit the poison if he doesn’t do it by himself. This does not apply if you know that your dog has swallowed for example a caustic liquid (like “drain cleaner”). In that case it would be better to give him some acid (like vinegar), so that the caustic liquid doesn’t have to pass his gullet another time. Likewise if he has been swallowing acid: try to give him something that can neutralize the acid, like magnesia or chalk for that matter.
3. Choking
Because dogs love to feel things in their mouths, choking can be a common (and fatal) hazard. Apart from foreign objects, allergic reactions can make your dog’s throat swell to a point where he can’t breathe.
If the dog is unconscious, you will have to act quickly. First you can try to push out whatever is in his throat by pushing his belly just below the ribs with one hand, while supporting his back with your leg/foot. This is easiest to do when the dog is lying on one side. Since there is a risk of damaging internal organs, don’t push too hard but do it a couple of times. Watch his mouth to see whether something appears when you are pressing his belly, and be ready to remove it with your other hand. If nothing comes out after a couple of pushes, you could quickly let two fingers search his throat for an object, – while you are still pushing with the other hand.
Actually: If you can lift your dog by the hind legs, you can instead try to hold him firmly by the thighs and lightly shake him downwards. This could make the foreign object fall out in a gentle way.
If he is still choked by something, you could try to give him artificial respiration by closing his mouth and placing your mouth over his nose (he is your best friend!). Blow into his nose until his chest rises visibly and then push again as before. This can be repeated until the obstruction comes out.
If this doesn’t seem to work or if he’s conscious and won’t let you push his belly as described above, you will have to use tools to get the obstruction cleared, Back him in between your legs or better: have someone restrain him. Open his mouth and if necessary keep it open with what is available, while you check his mouth for whatever the obstruction may be. Try to get it out with a spoon or any other suitable tools at hand. The best tool is a pair of long blunt tweezers, as those sometimes used in the kitchen. You should still be cautious when pulling the obstruction out, but on the other hand, the life of you dog may be at stake if you don’t get it out!
This is just some examples of what a dog emergency situation could be, – with a little imagination you could also come up with emergencies like broken limbs, shock, dehydration and so on.
If you want to be prepared for handling dog emergencies and maybe save your best friend’s life, I recommend that you read an ebook called “Secrets to a Healthy and Happy Pooch”. This will give you a basis for doing the right things in those scary emergency situations. Your dog will thank you for it!

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By Dog Specialist, August 29, 2010 1:58 pm

Leoanrd Mutch
489

Dog Food for the Older Dog
What changes do you need to make to your dog feeding regime as your dog gets older?
The changes you make to your dog feeding regime, and when you make them will vary depending on the age of your dog, and the breed of your dog.
It is considered that the larger and giant breeds of dog age earlier than the smaller and toy breeds of dog.
Your objective in managing the nutrition of the older dog is to enhance his quality of life, delay further ageing changes, and to extend his life whilst maintaining his optimal weight.
You are also trying to slow down the onset of disease and improve immune function.
Older dogs will generally be less active than younger dogs so as a rule will require a less energy dense dog food, unless of course the dog’s appetite is reduced for some reason.
Continuing to feed a dog the same amount of food with less exercise will inevitably result in obesity, a problem all too common in many dogs today.
In the old dog obesity can be a bigger problem than in the young dog as there may also be concurrent arthritis and organ problems which will be made worse.
A keen eye is needed to assess the energy needs of your dog as it ages, so be aware and switch brands if your dog’s weight shows marked changes as it ages.
For the older dog a good quality animal protein based on meat, fish eggs, milk or cheese is better than cereal protein.
A balance needs to be struck between providing too much protein which may be a problem for dogs with renal failure (a common problem in older dogs), and providing too little.
As ageing dogs tend to have less muscle and bone they will have less of a tissue protein reserve and need a certain level of protein in their diet to avoid a negative nitrogen balance.
Your veterinarian is the best person to monitor your ageing dog’s renal function and advise the appropriate level of protein in his diet.
When your dog’s protein intake is low due to inappetance, this can be increased by heating the food to increase palatability and release more aromas, and by feeding smaller more frequent meals and by supplementing with vitamins.
Carbohydrates are mainly provided by cereals and legumes in the diet, and these are a cheap source of energy.
Care should be taken with the sugar content of some of these foods
Fats are essential in the diet to provide a vehicle for fat soluble vitamins, and are essential for the health of old dogs.
However too much may result in obesity, so again moderation is the rule.
Fibre has a role too in the elderly dog as many are predisposed to constipation.
Adding fibre in the form of wheat bran or cooked vegetables two or three times a week will help to keep your elderly dog regular!
Most dog foods will have more than adequate levels of calcium and phosphorus for the older dog.
There may be a case for reduced levels of phosphorus and salt in the diet.
Some supplementation of zinc and vitamins may be helpful in the older dog, particularly the vitamin B complex.
The main food types for the older dog are – dry, semi-moist or canned.
Diet changes should be made slowly to prevent tummy upsets and diarrhoea.
Be sure to have plenty of water available for your dog, particularly if fed a dried food, and also if kidney and liver disease is a problem.
Reduced appetite in older dogs may be helped by feeding them 2 or more times per day with smaller portions so that they get their full daily requirement.
There are many commercial senior dog food diets now available.
It will pay you to thoroughly examine the different types to increase the life span and vitality of your older dog.

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By Dog Specialist, August 27, 2010 1:58 pm

Andrea Austin
242

When you mention the word “rabbit” many people think of Bugs Bunny. In reality, rabbits are very different from their cartoon counterparts. Rabbits may be cute, fuzzy, and adorable, but that does not mean they enjoy cuddling up to humans or being picked up and carried around.
In fact, improper handling of your new pet can result in harm, so before you pick out your new pet rabbit, make sure you understand all the basics of rabbit animal behavior and care.
How to Handle Rabbits–Should you Pick Up Your Rabbit?
As creatures who walk on all four feet and whose bodies are low to the ground, rabbits tend to feel the most comfortable and safe while sitting or laying on the floor. Therefore, when picked up, rabbits may become nervous, panicked, or even downright terrified. When this happens, they may begin kicking out their hind-legs.
Why is this such a danger? Well, when your pet rabbit thrashes around he risks fracturing his back (remembers, rabbits bones, including spinal cords, are very fragile). If you pick up a rabbit and he starts to get nervous, put him down immediately and carefully, and do not try to physically restrain him.
Above all, never pick up a bunny rabbit by its ears. If you do pick up your rabbit, it should be done by carefully lifting from the scruff of the neck, then supporting the rest of the body with your other hand.
How to Pet a Rabbit
Since rabbits do not like to be picked up as much as other pet animals, you may not be able to pick up your bunny and pet him in your lap as you may want to. Respect your pet bunnies wish to stay closer to the ground. Instead of lifting him up, let him sit beside you, then pet him gently.
If your rabbit seems nervous, use one hand to gently cover his eyes, then stroke his back soothingly and calmly. This will help ease him back to a peaceful state.
Also, it is important to supervise your children while they are learning to pet their rabbits. Make sure they do not use too much pressure or try to pick up the animals, for the reasons described above. Set a good example by showing them how to treat the rabbit, then ask them to follow your lead.
How Rabbits Interact with Humans
Just because rabbits do not like to be held dont be fooled! They really are loving and sociable creatures, and they need (and want) your attention. In fact, one of the best reasons to keep your pet bunny housed inside your home is that he will feel like he is becoming a part of the family. Being around humans gives rabbits the idea that they are part of a group; they dislike being lonely and enjoy companionship.
As rabbits tend to be high-strung creatures, settling in with and getting to know a familiar and loving group of humans can really set their minds at ease and make them healthier and happier.
If you follow this advice, you will probably find that you will develop a close and satisfying relationship with your pet bunny. He will grow to trust you and show you various sides of his personality. He may very likely exhibit a sense of humor and compassionate feelings toward you … which as all animal lover’s know is a wonderful reward!

by Andrea Austin,

http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

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By Dog Specialist, August 25, 2010 1:58 pm

Charles Edwin
276

Breeding dogs is an exciting experience. From the time a proper mate is found to the point that the puppies are born, it is crucial to take careful steps to make this successful.
Professional dog breeders do not breed frequently and will only do so when a pair is found to be healthy that will ensure the birth of healthy offspring.
The ideal breeder should have the pair of dogs tested for every possible disease as well as have all the information regarding the pair’s ancestors and health records on file. Should a breeder find no problem in the history of the pair, then the process can begin.
Dogs normally come into heat twice a year which is every six months. Larger dogs can come into heat every eight or ten months which usually lasts about three weeks. Vaginal bleeding is a sure sign that the dog is in heat as well as swelling in the vulva.
A dog’s pregnancy or gestation period lasts between 60 to 67 days. Most dogs give birth after 63 days.
The only way to determine the stage of the dog’s pregnancy is by keeping the track of time from the day of the breeding. Keeping a record of this on file is advisable for reference purposes.
Exactly three weeks after breeding, the mother must be examined to confirm the pregnancy.
The dog must be given a formulated and premium brand of dog food for the duration of the pregnancy and throughout the nursing period preferably with strong nutritional foundation.
During pregnancy, the mother’s food consumption will almost double compared to the pre-pregnancy level so increased feeding must be given to ensure that there is enough for both the dog and the puppies.
Behavioral changes are to be expected during this time. The dog will demand for more affection or may experience a few days of vomiting.
Later on, the expectant mother will search for a secure place to deliver the puppies. So, one must ensure that a proper place is ready when the time comes. An ideal place for an expecting mother is a box. Depending on the size of the dog, it must be spacious enough for the dog to move around and must have layers of newspaper inside it that will absorb birthing fluids. This should also have low sides for the mother to look outside and for the breeder to easily check if assistance is needed to make it easy to remove soiled papers without interrupting the mother and the newborn puppies.

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By Dog Specialist, August 23, 2010 1:57 pm

Ted Belfour
621

Which dog owner won’t feel proud of his disciplined dog? Reversely, who won’t feel ashamed of an unruly dog? It is very important for your dog to be absolutely obedient to commands of his owner. You can’t expect your dog to be obedient by birth or nature. You have to take pains to make him understand obey your commands.
Obedience training to your dog can be imparted in many ways – two of the more popular methods are typically carrot and stick methods. First method heavily depends on the stick or punishment approach. Second method deals with the reward system for the dog.
Leash and collar method of dog obedience training has survived for a long time now. It is primitive but still mostly followed. The premises of this training method are based here – leash will be the mode of communication with the dog. Dog must understand the commands, and if not obeyed to, leash should be put to action. Using leash alone is not sufficient – dog must be made aware of the good and bad behavior. Once tracked on the path to bad behavior, dog can be punished with the leash.
Reward system doesn’t believe in punishing the dog. It follows psychological approach to deal with dog training. Dog is made to know the good parts of behavior and rewarded for the same. His ugly behavior is neglected in the form of psychological treatment. The trainer or owner walks away from the dog immediately after the show of bad behavior. Dog is an intelligent animal to understand the difference between the bad and good behavior.
Whatever technique is used for dog obedience training, it is important to know that the training must be consistent. Dogs get easily confused due to double standards employed. If you expect your dog never to jump on the bed, never let or invite him on the bed. Ensure that your dog never reaches the bed.
Obedience training starts on the fundamental issues like sitting, standing, walking, listening to your commands & following those, sitting in the car, etc.
The dog owner can easily impart obedience training. You may find alternates to this by getting your dog enrolled with some obedience classes or dog instructor. Evaluate all the training techniques, methods, equipment, infrastructure, experience, etc before taking the final decision on outside help. Remember, the most ideal way will be yourself to be the instructor. Your dog will love it.

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By Dog Specialist, August 21, 2010 1:59 pm

Dr. Laurie Moore
319

Dolphins love to be in bliss. they have a wonderful capacity for sweeping peoples’ hearts into places of newly experienced joy. I thought I was a person who felt a lot of joy all my life. However, once I experienced being befriended by dolphins, bliss took on a whole new meaning. From my encounters with dolphins I have learned that the deepest joy can fill me from the tip of my toes to the top of my head and deep in my heart. This kind of joy is unconditional. It is something I bring to situations rather than something I try to receive from situations.
Here’s an analogy. If you don’t give yourself water for a long time and then wring out a towel day after day in search of water, you get little. If you drink big cups each day, your body feels hydrated and full of water all the time. So you don’t need to drain your water form a source that is dry. Often happiness that is pulled form situations and circumstances is quick to come and go. Happiness that is alive in the center of our heart can be a consistent source of fulfillment. The dolphins have an ability to remember this happiness at any time and can teach you how. It is your nature to be eternally happy and you may have forgotten. The dolphins can guide you back to this ability.
A dolphin does not teach through an intellectual conversation. Dolphins send out energetic messages of joy that people feel. To prepare yourself to receive, take a few moments in silence each day. Focus on your heart and ask that it be an open vehicle for the deep joy available. Some of you will feel the joy immediately and recognize that the greatest joy does come from within.
If you do not feel this joy, here is another approach. We all learn differently so try this way instead. Think about a time during which you were very happy. Send a message of gratitude from your heart out into the world about that time. Notice how you feel now. Notice that you are feeling happy because of your focus rather than any current circumstances. gratitude and focus creates joy.
One of my groups greeted the dolphins with great enthusiasm and many expectations about the interactions they would have. They chased the dolphins. The dolphins swam away. If you wanted to make a human friend would run down the street, chase him or her and expect that person do do as you imagined? I don’t know anyone who wants to be aggressively chased. I asked the group to practice communicating with a horse on land that afternoon. Once, again the group began to chase, opening the horse’s gate and going after the horse when the horse clearly wished to eat in peace. I asked the group to leave the horse alone and redirect their attention. I suggested that the group focus on their hearts and on enjoying each other. They did. They became happy and Decor the horse approached them lovingly.
When I asked the group to practice their communication skills with the horse, one woman began to tell Decor a long story and Decor bobbed his head and snorted,. The story was being told from the head. I asked the woman to be present with her heart, and simply tell Decor what her story of now was. She realized her story of now was simple: “I feel gratitude. “As she spoke form her heart to Decor’s, Decor came to kiss her.
Back out in the water with the dolphins the next day these people had a new approach. Instead of chasing they formed a circle with each other and began to sing. The dolphins greeted us within seconds of our departure from land. This is very rare. Bliss fountained through and around us.
In sum, learning what the dolphins can share is very simple. It requires a willingness to be present in your own heart. From there, all kinds of wonderful experiences can happen.

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By Dog Specialist, August 19, 2010 1:59 pm

O’Neal Hendrix
265

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks….
What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you’ll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.
I don’t know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I’ve developed a list of easy dog care to-do’s to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.
I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:
1. Orange vests for you and your dog
This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn’t see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don’t shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don’t be the next casualty — don your orange vests!
2. Current dog tags on collars
Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read “I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx”. This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn’t provide information for an easy abduction. I don’t want someone to know my babies?names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.
3. Foot and body check during and after the outing
I check my dogs?paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season — gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.
4. Fresh water and a bowl
If I can help it, I don’t let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.
5. Towels
I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.
6. Whistle — long range
Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don’t like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.
These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.
Happy hiking!