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By Dog Specialist, September 6, 2010 1:58 pm

Nancy E. Wigal
29

The first time a feline owner encounters an out-of-the-cat-litter-box experience, she probably uses whatever cleaners she has on hand. Initially, it appears she’s cleaned the cat urine odor and stain from the location. However, in a matter of hours or days, she still smells the cat urine odor in the “clean” spot and can’t figure out why it’s still there.
You can effectively clean cat urine odor spots and get rid of the odor permanently, but you can’t use the cleaners you have for other common household stain problems. This article outlines why only enzyme cleaners are effective in removing cat urine odor and stains.
Cat urine is composed of five different bacteria strains. Two of the identified bacteria strains are in cat marking scent, while the others are in the cat urine, the spray, and the uric acid. The bacteria is the main culprit responsible for the eye-watering, stomach-clenching cat urine smell. Cats usually don’t lap up water in great quantities like other animals, so their urine tends to be extremely concentrated. This concentration of bacteria results in the strong smell that is unique to cat urine.
Regular household cleaners aren’t designed to eradicate the bacteria in cat urine because they don’t contain enzymes. If you clean up a cat urine puddle with a commercial household cleaner, you’ll wipe up the puddle, but leave the bacteria behind. The odor remains and you feel frustration and anger.
But it’s not hopeless. The answer is to purchase a good quality enzyme cleaner that specifically targets pet stains and odors.
Enzyme cleaners work by literally eating the bacteria in the affected area. The enzymes react to the bacteria by consuming it. When the bacteria is removed, the cat urine odor and stain is truly gone, and the smell is removed. Without the smell of the cat urine stain around, your cat is no longer encouraged to use that particular spot for her out-of-the-litter-box experience.
When you find a cat urine puddle, wipe up the puddle as much as possible. Be sure you check far and wide, in case the urine splashed or ran down an uneven surface. Then, spray or pour the enzyme cleaner onto the cat urine puddle area and let it dry. This gives the enzymes a chance to work on the bacteria and remove it. If the surface you’re treating has cracks and pits, pour or spray directly into the crevice to make sure the enzyme cleaner encounters the bacteria.
Depending upon how old the cat urine puddle is, you may need to do more than one treatment. The older the puddle, the more treatment you’ll need to do. Give the cleaner a chance to work by leaving it on the surface to dry.
You can usually find a variety of enzyme cleaners at your local pet store. My personal favorite is Dumb Cat Anti Marking and Cat Spray Remover. Before you purchase any enzyme cleaner, be sure to check the bottle’s contents. Many enzyme cleaners use blood enzymes, which is not effective on cat urine. Dumb Cat uses enzymes that specifically targets cat urine bacteria.
Not only can you use enzyme cleaners on floor and furniture surfaces, but you can also use them as a laundry pre-soak if kitty happens to nail clothes or bedding. I also use an enzyme cleaner as a pre-soaking agent when I’m deep scrubbing my cat litter boxes every week. As the cat scratches in the box to cover her deposits, she creates cracks in the box surface. By pouring some enzyme cleaner in the cat litter box and letting it soak into the scratches, you eliminate accumulated cat urine odors that eventually discourage your cat from using her litter box.
Good luck and happy cleaning!

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By Dog Specialist, September 4, 2010 1:57 pm

Peter Garant
593

A healthy puppy should be clear-eyed, somewhat roly-poly, loose-skinned, free from any skin trouble, hungry for its meals, and lively. It should not be timid or shy.
If the puppy seems warm or sleepy most of the time, ask one of your parents to take its temperature. A dog‘s temperature normally is between 38 and 39 degrees Celsius. If its temperature rises above 39 degrees, call your veterinarian.
When you buy your puppy, ask what shots it has received and when it got them. If it has not received shots to prevent distemper, infectious hepatitis, leptospirosis, and rabies. take it immediately to a veterinarian to have them. Then get yearly boosters.You should also find out whether your puppy has been wormed. Most puppies have worms at some time.
For the first few days, you should feed your puppy the same diet as the owners did. If you wish to change the diet, do so gradually. Each day, feed a little of the new food mixed with the old.
Puppies 6 to 10 weeks old maybe fed 4 times a day. From 10 weeks to 6 months, 3 times a day should be enough. After 6 months, twice daily will serve. And after 1 year, once a day-plus a biscuit for breakfast-is ample.
Meat should be the main part of your dog’s diet. Fresh, canned, or frozen beef or horsemeat are good choices. It is not necessary to cook the meat, but it should be served at room temperature. With the meat, mix a dog meal or kibbled biscuit soaked in hot water, soup, or milk. You can get the meal or biscuit in the supermarket, feed store, or pet shop. Puppies need vitamins and minerals, and your veterinarian can give you vitamin tablets that your dog will enjoy chewing.
Other foods you may safely give your dog are well-cooked chicken, lamb, beef hearts, liver, and leafy vegetables. Hard biscuits of the right size for the dog’s mouth and dog candy will be appreciated too. A little cooked rice or dry toast may help the dog in illness or when it is recovering.
A puppy loses its baby teeth when it is between 4 and 5 months. It will be grateful for beef hide or rawhide strips to chew. You can buy them at supermarkets and pet shops. These strips are also very helpful in keeping the puppy from chewing your shoes and the furniture. Pet shops and markets also carry special hard marrow bones that help in teething and in keeping the new teeth clean and healthy.
Leave a bowl of water so that your dog can have a drink at any time-but remove the supply of water at 5 or 6 PM when you’re housebreaking a puppy. This will help the puppy go through the night without mistake.

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By Dog Specialist, September 2, 2010 1:59 pm

Melissa Buhmeyer
436

I’ve owned many dogs, throughout my life, but have never known exactly how to train them properly. I based my training on punishment and just couldn’t figure out why that didn’t work that well. But, almost two years ago, I started training my Papillon for agility competition. She was extremely high-drive and I knew she’d really love it. So, I found a good agility training school and off we went. We’ve been competing, very successfully, for almost a year now and, looking back, I learned so many important things about dog training!
First of all, most trainers require that dogs have completed at least a basic obedience class before proceeding to agility training. This is critical to agility training and, in my opinion, every dog and handler could benefit from a basic obedience class. I learned that I have a food-motivated dog and that she will work her heart out for highly prized treats, not for punishment! There are skills you and your dog will learn, through an obedience class, such as recalls, sit/stays, down/stays, and walking nicely on a leash. Each of these skills is something you will need every time you compete, not to mention day-to-day life with your dog.
The pace of your training will always be set by your dog. Each dog learns at a different speed and, what comes easily for one dog, may not come easily for another. So, be very patient while training your dog any skill. Make it a game. Let your dog take as much time as it needs, without getting impatient or frustrated, to figure out what behavior you want from it.
All tasks must be broken down into small pieces, whether the task is a simple sit, the beginnings of obstacle training, or more complex tricks or agility sequences. If you break the task down to something small, then mark/reward and repeat, several times before making the task larger, you will have success without stressing the dog out. For example, when training an agility tunnel, you scrunch it up to its smallest form. Have someone place your dog at the entrance while you sit on the ground at the exit, with a treat, and call your dog. As soon as the dog comes through that little piece of a tunnel, you mark/reward. Slowly begin expanding the tunnel using the same technique. In just a few minutes, you’ll have your dog going through however long a tunnel you need.
For agility training, once the dog begins obstacle training, there is never a wrong answer. Dogs get confused, and may shut down, if they start being told they’re doing the wrong thing, so keep the training light and never scold for doing the incorrect thing. If the dog doesn’t do what you want it to, you simply do not mark/reward for that action. You just ask again and, the minute you get the correct response, mark/reward and make a huge deal of it. That will make your dog more anxious to give you that same answer again. As you start competing, you might want to use a particular word to indicate the incorrect response, such as “uh oh,” or “oops,” but not with a scolding tone. This will indicate that the dog will be asked to try again but everything is fine between the two of you.
Lastly, always keep the training fun for both you and your dog. Even when you start competing, or have been competing for a long time, this is critical. If you start getting caught up in the competition and title-winning, you might forget why you started agility to begin with: because it’s fun! When the game stops being fun, your dog won’t enjoy it anymore and neither will you. Agility is a wonderful sport and will forever secure the relationship between you and your dog. Run fast, run clean, and, above all, have fun!

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By Dog Specialist, August 31, 2010 1:58 pm

Linda Boye
180

Dogs can also suffer injuries or get sick from a number of diseases, and it can happen at times when a veterinarian is not available and you haven’t found out where the nearest emergency animal clinic is located. Since your dog is a dear member of your family, you want to save your dog’s life, but are you prepared to deal with such emergencies?
A life-threatening emergency situation is always frightening and stressing both for the victim and for the helpers. And when the victim is a dog who can’t tell you what happened and where it is hurting, the situation becomes even more difficult to deal with. The best help is to be prepared for an emergency by knowing about the more common dog emergencies.
Below are 3 tips about dog emergencies:
1. Caring for Wounds.
A dog can get bleeding wounds in several ways: By fighting with other animals or by (mainly traffic) accidents. So knowing how to stop a wound from bleeding the dog to death is useful knowledge: Apply a clean piece of cloth to the wound and keep it there for at least 5 minutes, – if possible tape the cloth to the wound. Don’t take the cloth away, since that would probably make the wound start bleeding again. If it is bleeding through the cloth, find another clean piece of cloth and put it firmly around the first piece of cloth. Using hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the bleeding wound is not a good idea in this case, since it will slow the clotting of the blood and lead to a larger loss of blood. The clotting of the blood in the wound is nature’s way of stopping the bleeding, so it is important not to disturb it.
2. Poisons in the Mouth?
Another common dog emergency situation is that your doggie has got something in his mouth, which is poisonous to him, and he may even have swallowed some of it. Some amphibians like toads, newts and the like excrete poisons on their skin (to keep other animals from eating them!) and if it gets into a dog’s mouth it can become dangerous if it is left there or worse: if it is swallowed. The dog will show that something is wrong with its mouth by drooling and wiping it while whining. You must quickly rinse the dog’s mouth with clean water until you feel that it has been cleaned of the poison. If you don’t have a hose at hand, it may be easier to pour water in his mouth if he is lying down on the side. And you can prevent him from drinking the water by keeping his mouth open until the rinse is finished. It may be difficult to keep his mouth open all the time but since his life may be at stake you must be firm with him and – if necessary – use available materials to keep his mouth open.
If you suspect that your dog has eaten something poisonous, it is important that he is made to vomit the poison if he doesn’t do it by himself. This does not apply if you know that your dog has swallowed for example a caustic liquid (like “drain cleaner”). In that case it would be better to give him some acid (like vinegar), so that the caustic liquid doesn’t have to pass his gullet another time. Likewise if he has been swallowing acid: try to give him something that can neutralize the acid, like magnesia or chalk for that matter.
3. Choking
Because dogs love to feel things in their mouths, choking can be a common (and fatal) hazard. Apart from foreign objects, allergic reactions can make your dog’s throat swell to a point where he can’t breathe.
If the dog is unconscious, you will have to act quickly. First you can try to push out whatever is in his throat by pushing his belly just below the ribs with one hand, while supporting his back with your leg/foot. This is easiest to do when the dog is lying on one side. Since there is a risk of damaging internal organs, don’t push too hard but do it a couple of times. Watch his mouth to see whether something appears when you are pressing his belly, and be ready to remove it with your other hand. If nothing comes out after a couple of pushes, you could quickly let two fingers search his throat for an object, – while you are still pushing with the other hand.
Actually: If you can lift your dog by the hind legs, you can instead try to hold him firmly by the thighs and lightly shake him downwards. This could make the foreign object fall out in a gentle way.
If he is still choked by something, you could try to give him artificial respiration by closing his mouth and placing your mouth over his nose (he is your best friend!). Blow into his nose until his chest rises visibly and then push again as before. This can be repeated until the obstruction comes out.
If this doesn’t seem to work or if he’s conscious and won’t let you push his belly as described above, you will have to use tools to get the obstruction cleared, Back him in between your legs or better: have someone restrain him. Open his mouth and if necessary keep it open with what is available, while you check his mouth for whatever the obstruction may be. Try to get it out with a spoon or any other suitable tools at hand. The best tool is a pair of long blunt tweezers, as those sometimes used in the kitchen. You should still be cautious when pulling the obstruction out, but on the other hand, the life of you dog may be at stake if you don’t get it out!
This is just some examples of what a dog emergency situation could be, – with a little imagination you could also come up with emergencies like broken limbs, shock, dehydration and so on.
If you want to be prepared for handling dog emergencies and maybe save your best friend’s life, I recommend that you read an ebook called “Secrets to a Healthy and Happy Pooch”. This will give you a basis for doing the right things in those scary emergency situations. Your dog will thank you for it!

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By Dog Specialist, August 29, 2010 1:58 pm

Leoanrd Mutch
489

Dog Food for the Older Dog
What changes do you need to make to your dog feeding regime as your dog gets older?
The changes you make to your dog feeding regime, and when you make them will vary depending on the age of your dog, and the breed of your dog.
It is considered that the larger and giant breeds of dog age earlier than the smaller and toy breeds of dog.
Your objective in managing the nutrition of the older dog is to enhance his quality of life, delay further ageing changes, and to extend his life whilst maintaining his optimal weight.
You are also trying to slow down the onset of disease and improve immune function.
Older dogs will generally be less active than younger dogs so as a rule will require a less energy dense dog food, unless of course the dog’s appetite is reduced for some reason.
Continuing to feed a dog the same amount of food with less exercise will inevitably result in obesity, a problem all too common in many dogs today.
In the old dog obesity can be a bigger problem than in the young dog as there may also be concurrent arthritis and organ problems which will be made worse.
A keen eye is needed to assess the energy needs of your dog as it ages, so be aware and switch brands if your dog’s weight shows marked changes as it ages.
For the older dog a good quality animal protein based on meat, fish eggs, milk or cheese is better than cereal protein.
A balance needs to be struck between providing too much protein which may be a problem for dogs with renal failure (a common problem in older dogs), and providing too little.
As ageing dogs tend to have less muscle and bone they will have less of a tissue protein reserve and need a certain level of protein in their diet to avoid a negative nitrogen balance.
Your veterinarian is the best person to monitor your ageing dog’s renal function and advise the appropriate level of protein in his diet.
When your dog’s protein intake is low due to inappetance, this can be increased by heating the food to increase palatability and release more aromas, and by feeding smaller more frequent meals and by supplementing with vitamins.
Carbohydrates are mainly provided by cereals and legumes in the diet, and these are a cheap source of energy.
Care should be taken with the sugar content of some of these foods
Fats are essential in the diet to provide a vehicle for fat soluble vitamins, and are essential for the health of old dogs.
However too much may result in obesity, so again moderation is the rule.
Fibre has a role too in the elderly dog as many are predisposed to constipation.
Adding fibre in the form of wheat bran or cooked vegetables two or three times a week will help to keep your elderly dog regular!
Most dog foods will have more than adequate levels of calcium and phosphorus for the older dog.
There may be a case for reduced levels of phosphorus and salt in the diet.
Some supplementation of zinc and vitamins may be helpful in the older dog, particularly the vitamin B complex.
The main food types for the older dog are – dry, semi-moist or canned.
Diet changes should be made slowly to prevent tummy upsets and diarrhoea.
Be sure to have plenty of water available for your dog, particularly if fed a dried food, and also if kidney and liver disease is a problem.
Reduced appetite in older dogs may be helped by feeding them 2 or more times per day with smaller portions so that they get their full daily requirement.
There are many commercial senior dog food diets now available.
It will pay you to thoroughly examine the different types to increase the life span and vitality of your older dog.

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By Dog Specialist, August 27, 2010 1:58 pm

Andrea Austin
242

When you mention the word “rabbit” many people think of Bugs Bunny. In reality, rabbits are very different from their cartoon counterparts. Rabbits may be cute, fuzzy, and adorable, but that does not mean they enjoy cuddling up to humans or being picked up and carried around.
In fact, improper handling of your new pet can result in harm, so before you pick out your new pet rabbit, make sure you understand all the basics of rabbit animal behavior and care.
How to Handle Rabbits–Should you Pick Up Your Rabbit?
As creatures who walk on all four feet and whose bodies are low to the ground, rabbits tend to feel the most comfortable and safe while sitting or laying on the floor. Therefore, when picked up, rabbits may become nervous, panicked, or even downright terrified. When this happens, they may begin kicking out their hind-legs.
Why is this such a danger? Well, when your pet rabbit thrashes around he risks fracturing his back (remembers, rabbits bones, including spinal cords, are very fragile). If you pick up a rabbit and he starts to get nervous, put him down immediately and carefully, and do not try to physically restrain him.
Above all, never pick up a bunny rabbit by its ears. If you do pick up your rabbit, it should be done by carefully lifting from the scruff of the neck, then supporting the rest of the body with your other hand.
How to Pet a Rabbit
Since rabbits do not like to be picked up as much as other pet animals, you may not be able to pick up your bunny and pet him in your lap as you may want to. Respect your pet bunnies wish to stay closer to the ground. Instead of lifting him up, let him sit beside you, then pet him gently.
If your rabbit seems nervous, use one hand to gently cover his eyes, then stroke his back soothingly and calmly. This will help ease him back to a peaceful state.
Also, it is important to supervise your children while they are learning to pet their rabbits. Make sure they do not use too much pressure or try to pick up the animals, for the reasons described above. Set a good example by showing them how to treat the rabbit, then ask them to follow your lead.
How Rabbits Interact with Humans
Just because rabbits do not like to be held dont be fooled! They really are loving and sociable creatures, and they need (and want) your attention. In fact, one of the best reasons to keep your pet bunny housed inside your home is that he will feel like he is becoming a part of the family. Being around humans gives rabbits the idea that they are part of a group; they dislike being lonely and enjoy companionship.
As rabbits tend to be high-strung creatures, settling in with and getting to know a familiar and loving group of humans can really set their minds at ease and make them healthier and happier.
If you follow this advice, you will probably find that you will develop a close and satisfying relationship with your pet bunny. He will grow to trust you and show you various sides of his personality. He may very likely exhibit a sense of humor and compassionate feelings toward you … which as all animal lover’s know is a wonderful reward!

by Andrea Austin,

http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

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By Dog Specialist, August 25, 2010 1:58 pm

Charles Edwin
276

Breeding dogs is an exciting experience. From the time a proper mate is found to the point that the puppies are born, it is crucial to take careful steps to make this successful.
Professional dog breeders do not breed frequently and will only do so when a pair is found to be healthy that will ensure the birth of healthy offspring.
The ideal breeder should have the pair of dogs tested for every possible disease as well as have all the information regarding the pair’s ancestors and health records on file. Should a breeder find no problem in the history of the pair, then the process can begin.
Dogs normally come into heat twice a year which is every six months. Larger dogs can come into heat every eight or ten months which usually lasts about three weeks. Vaginal bleeding is a sure sign that the dog is in heat as well as swelling in the vulva.
A dog’s pregnancy or gestation period lasts between 60 to 67 days. Most dogs give birth after 63 days.
The only way to determine the stage of the dog’s pregnancy is by keeping the track of time from the day of the breeding. Keeping a record of this on file is advisable for reference purposes.
Exactly three weeks after breeding, the mother must be examined to confirm the pregnancy.
The dog must be given a formulated and premium brand of dog food for the duration of the pregnancy and throughout the nursing period preferably with strong nutritional foundation.
During pregnancy, the mother’s food consumption will almost double compared to the pre-pregnancy level so increased feeding must be given to ensure that there is enough for both the dog and the puppies.
Behavioral changes are to be expected during this time. The dog will demand for more affection or may experience a few days of vomiting.
Later on, the expectant mother will search for a secure place to deliver the puppies. So, one must ensure that a proper place is ready when the time comes. An ideal place for an expecting mother is a box. Depending on the size of the dog, it must be spacious enough for the dog to move around and must have layers of newspaper inside it that will absorb birthing fluids. This should also have low sides for the mother to look outside and for the breeder to easily check if assistance is needed to make it easy to remove soiled papers without interrupting the mother and the newborn puppies.

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By Dog Specialist, August 23, 2010 1:57 pm

Ted Belfour
621

Which dog owner won’t feel proud of his disciplined dog? Reversely, who won’t feel ashamed of an unruly dog? It is very important for your dog to be absolutely obedient to commands of his owner. You can’t expect your dog to be obedient by birth or nature. You have to take pains to make him understand obey your commands.
Obedience training to your dog can be imparted in many ways – two of the more popular methods are typically carrot and stick methods. First method heavily depends on the stick or punishment approach. Second method deals with the reward system for the dog.
Leash and collar method of dog obedience training has survived for a long time now. It is primitive but still mostly followed. The premises of this training method are based here – leash will be the mode of communication with the dog. Dog must understand the commands, and if not obeyed to, leash should be put to action. Using leash alone is not sufficient – dog must be made aware of the good and bad behavior. Once tracked on the path to bad behavior, dog can be punished with the leash.
Reward system doesn’t believe in punishing the dog. It follows psychological approach to deal with dog training. Dog is made to know the good parts of behavior and rewarded for the same. His ugly behavior is neglected in the form of psychological treatment. The trainer or owner walks away from the dog immediately after the show of bad behavior. Dog is an intelligent animal to understand the difference between the bad and good behavior.
Whatever technique is used for dog obedience training, it is important to know that the training must be consistent. Dogs get easily confused due to double standards employed. If you expect your dog never to jump on the bed, never let or invite him on the bed. Ensure that your dog never reaches the bed.
Obedience training starts on the fundamental issues like sitting, standing, walking, listening to your commands & following those, sitting in the car, etc.
The dog owner can easily impart obedience training. You may find alternates to this by getting your dog enrolled with some obedience classes or dog instructor. Evaluate all the training techniques, methods, equipment, infrastructure, experience, etc before taking the final decision on outside help. Remember, the most ideal way will be yourself to be the instructor. Your dog will love it.

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By Dog Specialist, August 21, 2010 1:59 pm

Dr. Laurie Moore
319

Dolphins love to be in bliss. they have a wonderful capacity for sweeping peoples’ hearts into places of newly experienced joy. I thought I was a person who felt a lot of joy all my life. However, once I experienced being befriended by dolphins, bliss took on a whole new meaning. From my encounters with dolphins I have learned that the deepest joy can fill me from the tip of my toes to the top of my head and deep in my heart. This kind of joy is unconditional. It is something I bring to situations rather than something I try to receive from situations.
Here’s an analogy. If you don’t give yourself water for a long time and then wring out a towel day after day in search of water, you get little. If you drink big cups each day, your body feels hydrated and full of water all the time. So you don’t need to drain your water form a source that is dry. Often happiness that is pulled form situations and circumstances is quick to come and go. Happiness that is alive in the center of our heart can be a consistent source of fulfillment. The dolphins have an ability to remember this happiness at any time and can teach you how. It is your nature to be eternally happy and you may have forgotten. The dolphins can guide you back to this ability.
A dolphin does not teach through an intellectual conversation. Dolphins send out energetic messages of joy that people feel. To prepare yourself to receive, take a few moments in silence each day. Focus on your heart and ask that it be an open vehicle for the deep joy available. Some of you will feel the joy immediately and recognize that the greatest joy does come from within.
If you do not feel this joy, here is another approach. We all learn differently so try this way instead. Think about a time during which you were very happy. Send a message of gratitude from your heart out into the world about that time. Notice how you feel now. Notice that you are feeling happy because of your focus rather than any current circumstances. gratitude and focus creates joy.
One of my groups greeted the dolphins with great enthusiasm and many expectations about the interactions they would have. They chased the dolphins. The dolphins swam away. If you wanted to make a human friend would run down the street, chase him or her and expect that person do do as you imagined? I don’t know anyone who wants to be aggressively chased. I asked the group to practice communicating with a horse on land that afternoon. Once, again the group began to chase, opening the horse’s gate and going after the horse when the horse clearly wished to eat in peace. I asked the group to leave the horse alone and redirect their attention. I suggested that the group focus on their hearts and on enjoying each other. They did. They became happy and Decor the horse approached them lovingly.
When I asked the group to practice their communication skills with the horse, one woman began to tell Decor a long story and Decor bobbed his head and snorted,. The story was being told from the head. I asked the woman to be present with her heart, and simply tell Decor what her story of now was. She realized her story of now was simple: “I feel gratitude. “As she spoke form her heart to Decor’s, Decor came to kiss her.
Back out in the water with the dolphins the next day these people had a new approach. Instead of chasing they formed a circle with each other and began to sing. The dolphins greeted us within seconds of our departure from land. This is very rare. Bliss fountained through and around us.
In sum, learning what the dolphins can share is very simple. It requires a willingness to be present in your own heart. From there, all kinds of wonderful experiences can happen.

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By Dog Specialist, August 19, 2010 1:59 pm

O’Neal Hendrix
265

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks….
What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you’ll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.
I don’t know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I’ve developed a list of easy dog care to-do’s to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.
I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:
1. Orange vests for you and your dog
This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn’t see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don’t shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don’t be the next casualty — don your orange vests!
2. Current dog tags on collars
Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read “I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx”. This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn’t provide information for an easy abduction. I don’t want someone to know my babies?names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.
3. Foot and body check during and after the outing
I check my dogs?paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season — gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.
4. Fresh water and a bowl
If I can help it, I don’t let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.
5. Towels
I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.
6. Whistle — long range
Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don’t like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.
These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.
Happy hiking!

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By Dog Specialist,

Allen Shaw
602

Take my word for it, no matter how much you want your new puppy to sleep with you, this is not the best option. Especially when you’re dealing with a 75-pound behemoth that’s scared of a little thunder. Your king-sized bed suddenly becomes half a twin-size bed. So next to food and a trip to the vet, a good dog bed should be one of your first major purchases. But what kind of dog bed should you get? There are literally hundreds of choices. For instance:
Large dog beds for the type of dog mentioned in the first paragraph
Outdoor beds for the pooch who prefers sleeping under the stars
Fancy designer beds for the pampered pooch that’s probably related to Paris Hilton’s Tinkerbelle
Travel and car beds for the dogs who spend a lot of time on the road
Heated beds for the cold-natured little breeds
Orthopedic beds for the pooches getting up there in age Iron beds for the decorating pooches in your household
Chew-proof beds for…well…you know
And waterproof beds for the little pups who sometimes get a little scared at night…you know what I mean.
But no matter the bed you buy, there are a couple of rules you should be aware of. First, make sure every part of the bed is machine washable. No matter how many times you wash your dog, he’s going to manage to smell up that bed. And if it’s a bed you keep in your own bedroom, the odors that will eventually emanate from that bed will give you nightmares.
Second, get a bed with cedar shavings or a thick foam pad as the padding. This will help immensely with keeping your favorite flea friends from becoming permanent residents of your dog’s bed. Third, make sure you buy the right size dog bed. If possible, take your dog with you when you buy the bed. No matter how cute the bed is, or how well it goes with your home décor, if your dog can’t comfortably lay down in the bed, he won’t use it.
Also, pay close attention to what the bed is made of. Wicker is cute and very stylish. But fleas love it. And for the dog that hasn’t quite gotten over the chewing stage yet, a wicker bed is little more than the world’s largest chew toy. Beanbags are also popular dog beds because most people born in the late 60s still have one stowed away in their basements or attics somewhere (yes you do, admit it). But have you ever seen what’s inside a beanbag? You will find out very quickly if Fido discovers how to operate the zipper that keeps the stuffing in the bag. You would be wise to leave the beanbag in the attic and open your wallet cheapskate.
So now that you’ve done the research, go out and buy your new best friend a great bed. Remember to get the proper size. Get one with cedar shaving or foam as the padding. Make sure all parts of the bed are machine washable. And most importantly, make sure Fido likes the bed or you will have an unwanted visitor in the middle of the night…especially when there’s thunder.
Copyright 2006 Allen Shaw

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By Dog Specialist, August 17, 2010 1:50 am

Bill Wilcox
454

If your dog is an important part of your life, you will want to provide the best of care for her so she can enjoy a long and rewarding life. A trip or two each year to your veterinary clinic does not guarantee that your loyal canine will maintain her healthy appearance and youthful spirit. It is you, the dog’s owner, who can make the difference between your dog living a long, full life or one of physical disease and health problems.
Many dogs are treated like they are immune from common heath problems – they are NOT! They suffer many of the same health issues that afflict humans; teeth and gum disease, ear infections, toe nail problems, and hair issues, just to name a few.
Well, don’t get discouraged, because a few simple and easy grooming practices can help you prevent the premature aging of your pet. Basic personal dog grooming is the key to early recognition of skin and tumor issues, dental problems, and mobility difficulties.
To help you establish a regular dog grooming regimen, the following tips are provided covering five key areas; brushing, bathing, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and dental hygiene.
Brushing Your Dog
Brushing, or grooming, your dog is a great time for bonding with her and providing the physical contact that all dogs desire. This practice promotes a lustrous shine on the dog’s coat, whiling eliminating dirt, debris, and dead fur.
This is also the perfect opportunity to examine your dog’s skin for fleas and ticks, lumps, cuts, or contusions. And while you’re at it, take a moment and examine her ears, eyes, teeth and nails.
Bathing Your Dog
Here is the good news – most dogs only need bathing once a month, unless she likes to play in the rain and mud. If she does get dirty on a regular basis, adjust your bathing schedule accordingly.
A prerequisite to bathing is a good brushing. This loosens up any dead hair or dirt and makes the bathing process much more productive. A good practice is to start bathing your dog as young as possible. Generally start when she is about 14-15 weeks old, or earlier, if they tend to get into messy situations.
Find a good location to bathe your dog, preferably one that is contained and has good drainage. Undoubtedly, water will be spilled or shaken near and far. An enclosed shower or tub is an ideal location, or if your dog is a smaller breed, the kitchen sink can also work.
Wet your dog thoroughly, avoiding her head to keep water out of her eyes and ears. Plug your dog’s ears with cotton balls if there is a risk of flooding the ears. Use a dog shampoo and lather up the dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and squeeze off the excess water. The face should be washed with a soft, damp cloth. Towel dry your dog, and blow dry if desired, but it is best to keep her confined until dry.
Trimming Nails
Nail trimming can be a traumatic experience for some dogs. So, it is best to start the nail trimming experience as early as 2-3 months old to let your dog become accustomed to the practice. For puppies, you can often use finger nail clippers to tip the ends of the nails.
If this is just too much for your dog or puppy to handle all in one sitting, you may start with trimming only one paw at a time, giving your dog an extended break between sessions. The key to successful nail trimming is providing your dog lots of praise when she lets you cut a nail. Kind, soothing words of praise will let her know that she is loved and this experience is nothing to fear. Of course, a few dog treats after the session is over can’t hurt either.
Cleaning Ears
Inspect your dog’s ears often, but only clean them when there is evidence of dirt in the opening or canal. Use a cotton ball, never a cotton swab, to clean the dirt out of the ear. Soaking the cotton ball with a good ear cleaning solution provides the best results. Hydrogen peroxide can be substituted for the cleaning solution, if necessary.
If you notice that the dog’s ears are red, swollen, or emit a foul smell, the problem might be more serious and demand veterinary attention. Yeast infections, ear mites, and other ear problems are more easily treated by medications only available from your vet.
Keeping a Bright Smile
As a dog’s life span has been extended over the years, it is even more imperative that your dog maintain healthy teeth and gum tissue. You can assist her by brushing her teeth regularly. Start as early in life as possible, to get your dog accustomed to the feel of your finger or brush in her mouth.
Starting with your finger, or a special dog toothbrush fitted for your fingertip, begin massaging your dog’s gums and gently rubbing her teeth. Once she has become accustomed to the practice, try using a dog toothbrush, or small soft bristled human toothbrush, with dog-specific toothpaste. Never use toothpaste designed for humans on your dog.
Continuing this practice throughout your dog’s life will ensure that she will avoid gum disease, loose teeth, and related eating problems.
These easy-to-follow grooming tips take very little time compared to the years of enjoyment your dog will provide you and your family. Take care of your loving “best friend” and she will certainly return the favor many times over!

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By Dog Specialist, August 13, 2010 1:57 pm

O’Neal Hendrix
284

This article is the second in a 3-part series about changing dog behavior using positive dog training methods.
Be a leader, a dog will follow.
From the last article, remember King and his dominant dog behavior? King was the leader of his pack — Mom, Dad, 2 kids. King set the rules in the house and didn’t hesitate to enforce them, with growling, posturing, biting and other scary dog behaviors.
In that article, I introduced 3 simple dog training steps to help you begin to take the leadership role back from your dominant and furry leader-of-the-pack.
Let’s look at another family, where Mom is the leader and Queenie is at the bottom of the pack hierarchy (where dogs should be) and her obedient dog behavior was praised and applauded by the whole family.
One day, Billy brought a dog home. The family decided to take her in and make her part of the family. They named her Queenie. Queenie was a terrier mix, feisty and pushy, with an inquisitive mind. Mom Jackie quickly began helping Queenie fit in with the family with positive dog training techniques. She taught Queenie where her sleeping places/beds were, how to make requests with a polite sit, how to communicate in a positive way, how good manners result in good things. Jackie patiently reinforced each good dog behavior until Queenie got it, and then she would review and reward to keep the good behaviors in place. Queenie quickly became a wonderful member of the family. Yes, she pushed and sought out trouble wherever she could, but Jackie was there to help redirect her and teach her new ways of using her curiosity in fun games and activities with her family. There was no concern about biting or bad dog behavior. Queenie and the rest of her pack were calm and happy.
If you want your household to be more like Queenie’s, here are a few more simple dog training suggestions to help you take back your leadership position and create an orderly and calm household. (Review article #1 for the first set of suggestions).
1. First, get their attention!
Begin all communication with your dog’s name first. “Blah, blah, blah Benji” gets their attention at Benji. “Benji! Come!” sets Benji up for success.
2. Leader first!
You, the leader, always go first through doorways, gateways, car doors, etc. The leader goes first and the dog follows. Praise, praise, praise for honoring the leader.
3. Be kind!
This is so, so important. Use a gentle voice for most things. When you need to use a more stern approach, that’s fine. Just remember, your dog is looking to you for direction and guidance. Give it calmly and lovingly and you will see the difference. Your dog will love you and want to be with you and please you.
4. Let’s play! — on MY terms.
Games and toys are great fun for dogs — and you. Begin and end games as a leader does. YOU are in control, not Skipper. End the game before he gets bored and leaves. Keep him wanting more.
5. Let’s EAT!
Being a leader means eating first at mealtime. If you typically eat at about the same time your dog eats, you eat first and then feed your dog. (This suggestions points to another strong recommendation ?no running buffet!)
Don’t let Fifi run your household. No matter how large or small the dog, or how cute and cuddly, if you do not step into the leadership role, your dog will. Take leadership of your pack back and begin to change that bad dog behavior. You CAN have Queenie in your household. Just start putting these dog training suggestions in place and you’ll notice the difference right away.
Be the leader–your dog will love you for it and work hard to please you!

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By Dog Specialist, August 11, 2010 2:00 pm

Blake Kritzberg
2

Dogs are susceptible to various skin problems — which can be frustrating for owners who want to see Fido comfortable and happy. Does your dog have a skin problem, and if so, how do you fix it?
That depends on the symptoms you see. Of course, the most common sign of a possible skin problem in your dog is constant, excessive itching. Other symptoms include fur loss, either localized in a certain location or spread across the dog’s entire body. More severe cases may involve redness in the skin, changes in skin pigmentation or even open sores that your dog constantly licks.
No particular symptom necessarily proves your four-footed friend has a certain type of skin disorder, and you’ll need to investigate other areas before you draw conclusions. While it’s common and helpful for veterinarians to diagnose skin problems, it’s also essential for dog owners like you to familiarize yourself with typical canine skin problems, so you can react quickly and keep his discomfort to a minimum.
Fleas, Lice and Ticks
One of the most common problems in dogs is the presence of fleas, lice and ticks, which are parasites that live on the surface of the skin and feed on the dog’s blood. These parasites?saliva causes skin irritation and results in intense scratching.
Lice and ticks can be detected visually when you check your dog’s fur, while fleas are hard to spot with the naked eye. However, fleas cause red pimple marks on the skin and also can be spotted through the black, gritty trail of “dirt?they leave on a dog’s belly.
While you can remove ticks and lice with tweezers — applying alcohol to relax the tick’s grip before doing so — you can also adopt more general methods. For instance, you can give your dog a dip with special tick shampoo to eliminate ticks. Flea sprays or flea powder can also be applied to the dog to kill parasites. But all these require persistence and it may be a while before you see results.
One of the best methods to keep your dog comfortable is to prevent ticks from living off your dog in the first place through the use of a spot-on product, such as FrontLine or BioSpot. To apply these chemicals, you drip a small amount onto the back of your dog’s neck once a month. The chemical spreads throughout the dog’s skin and kills parasites — including the eggs and larvae. When regularly treated, your dog becomes an unattractive host.
Mange
Mange is a skin problem caused by mites that burrow underneath the dog’s skin, causing intense and even agonizing itching. Bald spots or inflamed red skin are common symptoms of mange. Two types of mange exist in dogs: sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange, depending on the kind of mite involved.
Most dogs carry the mites involved in demodectic mange or demodex. However, these mites usually do not cause itching except when they suddenly multiply into huge numbers. This may happen in young puppies, or in dogs with decreased natural body defenses, sometimes from stress.
On the other hand, Sacroptic mange or scabies causes intense itching in the dog as the mites burrow under the skin and even lay their eggs there. This causes large red spots on the dog’s skin, and sometimes fur loss on the ears and elbows. Scabies can infect humans as well and cause itchiness, although infection in humans usually disappears by itself after a while. However, it is still important for people to seek treatment if they get infected.
Treatment for mange requires patience and time, as eliminating them or lowering the mite population takes a while to take effect. The best way to kill the mites is to soak your dog in a lime and sulfur medicated dip for 10 to 15 minutes a few times in a week. The dip should not be washed off, but left to dry on your dog’s skin and fur. During this time, it’s best to watch your dog closely and prevent him from licking himself dry. As a further precaution, you can feed him a raw egg to line his stomach before dipping him in the solution. This way, even if he does lick himself, the solution won’t be absorbed on an empty stomach.
When fighting mange, it’s also important to support your dog with the highest quality diet you can find, to improve his immune system. Healing from mange will take a lot of his internal resources. You might consider looking into the raw diet for dogs and avoiding any corn or rice-based products for the time being.

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By Dog Specialist, August 9, 2010 1:58 pm

Nikola Marshall
560

We all love a sweet, cuddly-faced puppy. Who wouldn’t? But those little bundles of joy grow up and we must make an informed decision in order to have a happy household.
Each breed of dog has its own set of characteristics and quirks. These can either be endearing or run us batty, depending upon our own personalities. Small dogs can be yappy and are often like small children. Some breeds, like the Saint Bernard, are “wet mouth?dogs. This means they have a tendency to drool-a lot! Other breeds tend to be diggers, swimmers and climbers. Working and herding breeds are very intelligent and will need “jobs?to keep them occupied.
Where do you live? If an apartment is your home, you certainly don’t want a large dog. It would need more space for exercise. A small breed is perfect for you. Think Boston Terriers, Maltese, and Chihuahuas. A mid or large size dog is great if you have a large fenced-in yard. Consider Boxers or Shetland Sheepdogs. If you reside in the country with plenty of space, any large breed would benefit. Choose Border Collies, Great Danes and Australian Shepherds. Make sure your dog has plenty of room to exercise. And please keep them safe! A dog running loose in the city is hazardous for the dog, people and traffic.
How much time do you have for your puppy? Some dogs are great at occupying themselves, while others need constant supervision. Know what you can offer. You will get back from the relationship what you give to it.
Is your heart set on a purebred dog? Mixed breeds are a joy and often have fewer health issues. Your local newspaper will often have quite a selection of mixed breed dogs and the local animal shelter shouldn’t be overlooked.
These are but a few considerations you should think about when adding a puppy to your household. And but a very few breeds. Use these guidelines, add some of your own. The more thought you put into this important decision, the happier you, and your new puppy, will be.

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By Dog Specialist, August 7, 2010 1:58 pm

Jack Russell
354

Dogs are loving pets. But caring for them is a bit of hard work. Here are some tips to consider in taking care of your dog:
If you do not have a dog yet, consider the area where your dog can exercise. If you have a big yard where you could exercise or play with your dog, you might want to get a large dog such as a German Shepherd, Labrador, or Golden Retriever. If you have a smaller space, get a smaller dog like a Terrier or Dachshund. These types of dogs need little exercise compared with the larger dogs.
You also need to consider your dog if there are children in your house. Some dogs like Pit bulls and Dalmatians sometimes get to be temperamental.
It is important that you groom your dog. A regular groom is recommended. Dog’s ears should be cleaned, with the wax and dirt removed every week. Ear cleaning also helps you detect presence of ear mites or infections. The dog should be bathed weekly with warm water and dog shampoo.
It is also recommended that you brush your dog at least once a week.
After grooming your pet, do take it to a veterinarian to get its anti-rabies shots and over-all checkup.
A diet that is balanced and nutritious is recommended for your dog. Contrary to what many people think, dogs do not just eat meat. They also need carbohydrates. A diet consisting of 50 percent of protein or meat and 50 percent of carbohydrates is the preferred diet for dogs.
As implied earlier, dogs need some amount exercise. Aside from their health, dogs exercising will prevent them from retrieving and chasing, digging, and chewing on various things. Exercises depend on your dog’s sex, age, and health level. A dog likes to jog, fetch, and race-walk a lot. One warning however, start slow in exercising your dog. Unfortunately, some dogs enjoy themselves so much when they do these exercises. They do not know when to stop it.
Having a dog to last you for a long time does not end with just owning one. You have to take care of it. Although that may be hard work, it would also bring you fun and enjoyment when you see that your dog is healthy and loves you. Having a pet dog of your own is a pleasurable experience.

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By Dog Specialist, August 5, 2010 1:58 pm

Mark Bensen
287

The head collar has become an increasingly popular dog training tool in the past couple of years. Two of the most well known brands of head collar on the market are the Gentle Leader and the Halti, but there are many other brands that incorporate the basic head collar concept.
Many people find the Gentle Leader easier to fit that the Halti, and in addition the Gentle Leader is designed to fasten around the dog‘s neck. The advantage of this design is that even if the dog is somehow able to wriggle out of the muzzle, it is still wearing a collar. This safety feature is very important, especially during training outside or in novel situations. On the other hand, the Halti offers better control of the dog, and for this reason it is often favored when working with very aggressive dogs.
Training a dog with a head collar has a number of advantages over training with a traditional or training collar. For one thing, head collars are often easier to use for beginning dog trainers than are training collars. Head collars are also quite effective at preventing dogs from pulling, or controlling and retraining dogs that tend to pull.
Head collars can also be quite effective at controlling dogs in difficult situations, such as controlling a dog that wants to be with other dogs. Most owners know of some situations in which their dogs are difficult to control, and head collars can be quite effective at controlling these volatile situations.
Head collars can be excellent for controlling dogs that are very strong, or for working with a dog in an area that contains a great many distractions. For instance, head collars are great for when your dog is on an outing, or in an area where there will be other dogs and other distractions.
Even though a head collar can be a great tool, it should not be used as a replacement for effective dog training. A head collar is most effective when it is used in combination with strong and sensible dog training methods, such as reward training and other forms of positive reinforcement.
Disadvantages of head collars
Even though head collars have many advantages, they have some distinct disadvantages as well. For one thing, head collars tend to make many dogs dependent on the equipment, and they quickly learn the difference between their regular collar and the head collar, and adjust their behavior accordingly.
In addition, some dogs, particularly those not accustomed to wearing a head collar, dislike wearing it and paw at it, try to rub it off or pull excessively. If your dog exhibits this behavior, the best strategy is to keep it moving until it learns to accept the collar. A good alternative is to have the dog sit by pulling up on the dog’s head.
Another disadvantage of the head collar is the reaction that many people have to it. Many people think that a head collar is a muzzle, and react to the dog as if it may bite. While this is not necessarily a defect of the head collar, many people do find it troublesome.
In conclusion, training with a head collar is much like training with a training collar or any other equipment. While the head collar can be an important and useful tool, it is important to use it appropriately, follow all package instructions, and to combine its use with solid training methods. The eventual goal of dog training with a head collar should be to have the dog behave as well with a regular collar as it does with the specialized head collar.

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By Dog Specialist, August 3, 2010 1:59 pm

O’Neal Hendrix
370

This article is the third in a 3-part series about changing dog behavior using positive dog training methods.
Be a leader, a dog will follow.
From the last two articles, remember King and his dominant dog behavior? King was the leader of his pack — Mom, Dad, 2 kids. King set the rules in the house and didn’t hesitate to enforce them, with growling, snapping, and even biting. I introduced 3 simple dog training steps to help you begin to take the leadership role back from King.
Then there was Queenie and her family (especially Mom), who gently took the leadership position. Queenie learned dog manners and wonderful dog behavior through Mom’s gentle but firm positive dog training methods and her consistency in teaching Queenie house rules. Queenie was eager to learn and to please and received lots of praise and tons of treats. With humans as pack leaders and dogs as pack members (preferably at the bottom of the hierarchy!), the whole household is calm and happy.
Let’s talk about your household. Your angel might not be as dominant or aggressive as King, and you may have worked with her some but not quite enough to have a dog similar to Queenie. Time is sometimes a factor — with our lives as busy as they are, sometimes it’s difficult to make time to for even short periods of dog training. But if you’ll give it a little effort, the payoff will be tremendous. You can change your dog’s behavior in no time at all.
I want to give you a few more new recommendations for regaining leadership in your pack. But first, I want to review some of the ones found in the first two articles. For the complete list, go to http://www.best-dog-articles.com.
SOME REVIEW STEPS
Get their attention first — say Fido’s name before you say the command.
Be kind — Use a gentle voice, give commands and direction calmly and lovingly.
Let’s play — YOU start and end all games. Keep them wanting more.
Let’s EAT — YOU eat before feeding the dog.
Praise, praise, praise — Pour on the praise for good dog behavior and good manners.
NEW STEPS
1. Are you sick?!
One of the first concerns with new or unwanted behaviors (e.g., excessive urination) is a health concern. Get a vet check to address any health concerns that might cause behaviors your dog has no control over.
2. Down every day!
Put your dog in a “down” position for 5-10 minutes every day. This reinforces for your dog that you are the leader. Beginning this program may involve many jump-ups. Just gently and firmly put the dog back down. (No need to restart time.) You will notice that the breaks of command quickly fall away. It’s fine for your dog to sleep through this one!
3. Do that AGAIN!
Dogs love routine. They have incredible internal clocks. One activity that dogs love and that routine is important is mealtime. I suggest feeding dogs two times a day (no running buffet) within an hour window each time (e.g., 7-8AM and 5-6PM). Watch your dog — if you do something regularly, they come to expect it and act appropriately. Other activities that can become routine are morning or evening walks, Saturday errands, the time you come home from work. If it’s a regular thing, your dog knows it’s going to happen.
4. Brush, brush, brush the coat!
One activity you both can enjoy is grooming. Daily gentle grooming reinforces a loving relationship with your dog. This can become prized private time for both of you.
5. Through the paces– Every day!
Obedience training is very important to do every day, even for 5 minutes at a time. Try to avoid the military commando approach. Be consistent and kind, get your dog’s attention first, praise, praise, praise for his willingness and compliance to your commands. Practicing obedience reinforces that you are the leader.
CONCLUSION
That’s it! You now have the arsenal for regaining the leadership position in your pack and getting some good dog behavior practices in place. Emphasizing the positive in your dog training efforts pays off exponentially — your dog will be your friend for life and won’t be scared of you. When you establish yourself as leader, dogs respect you and will work so hard to please you. Take the time to get these easy steps into your daily routine and watch the changes magically occur.
Wishing you a calm and happy adventure with your canine companions.

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By Dog Specialist, August 1, 2010 1:59 pm

Richard Cussons
67

Make you puppy training easier and more fun by understanding that your puppy is trying to communicate with you in other ways than barking or wagging his tail. Remember, your puppy also communicates with his ears, tail, paws, mouth and more and your puppy training and everyday life with your dog will be much more fun.
Here is a short guide to some basic dog body language and what it means:
Dominant – You’ll find that a dominant dog has its ears straight up or forward, its mouth slightly opened or closed, its eyes open wide or staring, its body standing stiff and tall with hackles possibly raised, and its tail out from the body stiffened or fluffed. A low and assertive bark can often be expected.
Friendly – A friendly dog has perked up ears, open and alert eyes, a relaxed mouth, a tail or whole rear end wagging, and possibly whimpering, yapping or giving short barks.
Playful – A bow position with wagging tail means “let’s play.?
Submissive – A dog with its ears tightly back, eyes closed and paw raised is showing extreme submission. The dog isn’t happy but shows it will not attack.
Aggressive – An aggressive dog has its ears flattened back against its head, its eyes narrowed or challenging, body tense, mouth open to show teeth and tail held out from the body and fluffed up if possible. Snarls or growls are typical.
Worried – Sharp barks combined with growling, ears flattened and neck hairs raised means “I’m worried” or “something is wrong.”
Fear – A dog shows fear with a lowered stance, tail down or tucked underneath, an arched back, looking or turning head whilst showing the whites of their whites of eyes and dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.
Stressed – A stressed dog will often have ears back and down, a wide open mouth, lips drawn back with rapid respiration. Also shoulders lowered, hunched forward, tail tucked, tension in haunches and will probably be trembling.
Now that you understand more about what your puppy is trying to say to you about how he feels or the mood he is in try to accommodate this in your puppy training and everyday life.
In a puppy training session your dog should be showing that he is in a friendly or playful mood. If he shows he is dominant then you know that he may not be taking you seriously or could be being stubborn and you probably need to be more assertive.
Some submissive behaviour is not a bad thing as it means that that he understands that you are in charge.
If your puppy becomes stressed, fearful, worried or even aggressive, you must stop your training and reassure your dog immediately. If you have been training for more than 15 minutes stop and take a break. When you come back takes things more slowly or approach things in a different way.
Use your knowledge in every day life too. Observe your puppy in different situations and you will quickly discover what he likes and dislikes or how he is feeling. You can then take steps to give him more of what he enjoys and more support, confidence and training in situations he finds more difficult.

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By Dog Specialist, July 30, 2010 1:58 pm

Brigitte Smith
60

It goes without saying that your dog needs suitable nutrition to remain healthy. Vets and pet food manufacturers often have differing views on appropriate nutrition for your dog. Although commercial pet food manufacturers are motivated in large part by profits, commercially prepared foods are routinely recommended as part of an adequate, or good, diet for your dog. Sometimes your vet or dog breeder may approve of commercially prepared foods as your dog’s sole diet. Many experts, however, tend to prefer a largely natural diet which for dogs is invariably comprised of meat and bones. Raw is preferable to cooked, as some of the minerals are definitely lost in the cooking process.
The reason why the commercially prepared pet food is so often fed to our dogs, is because, apart from the convenience, it can (depending upon the quality) actually contain many of the nutrients which are essential to your dog’s wellbeing. The key word here is quality. There are in fact very, very few commercial manufacturers which produce nutrient-rich food. And they’re not the brands you find in your supermarket, or even in most pet stores or vetinarians.
Raw bones with a little dry food as well as occasional rice or pasta, and perhaps the odd quality food scrap from your table, will generally contain most of the nutrients which your dog needs.
All dogs must obtain reasonable nutrition from their food to maintain excellent health and performance. The main nutrients required by your dog are water, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Vitamin or mineral deficiency in dogs fed a commercially manufactured diet today is not widely publicised. But then again, the slosh and dried formulae which are readily available from your vet or the local supermarket are not your dog’s natural diet. If your dog was left to fend for itself in the wild (assuming it could manage to adapt, that is), would choose raw meat. And one of the reasons why meat, and especially bones, are so good, is the chewing action and the teeth cleaning function which the bones perform. Of course, there are also commercially prepared substitutes which can also effectively clean your dog’s teeth and satisfy his/her need to chew.
A lesser known fact is that to feed your dog only meat (with no bones and no cereals or other carbohydrate source) can cause severe deficiencies: your dog is likely to become lethargic, sick, and even death has been known to occur from an all meat diet. But what about dogs in the wild, I hear you ask? Isn’t meat a dog’s natural diet? Isn’t that what you just said, Brigitte? Well, yes and no: in the wild dogs eat the whole of their prey, not simply muscle meat – they thus obtain vegetable matter from the digestive tract of their prey, and calcium from the bones. As well, wild dogs occasionally, but routinely, add to their diet with plants, fruit and berries.
Most dogs relish some raw fruit and vegetables in their diet, so long as that’s what they’re used to. A dog who has been fed commercially prepared dog food all of its life won’t be used to the taste of fresh food, so may well turn up his/her nose if you introduce such healthy food later in life. But persevere – try hand feeding pieces of carrot or apple to begin with. And if your dog is still very young, all the better. Start as you mean to go on and feed him/her some raw fruit and vegetables from time to time. Your dog’s health will benefit!
(c) 2005, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs